William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
- ISBN 13:
- 9781594203473
- author:
- William Finnegan
- format:
- HardBack
- publisher:
- PENGUIN PR
- language:
- English
- Publication Year:
- 2015
- Pages:
- 464
- Dimensions:
- 16.5 x 3.9 x 24.2 cm
- Genre:
- Editors, Journalists, Publishers Travel
- Condition:
- New
- Availability:
- Item usually sent within 6 working days
Description
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a memoir of obsession and enchantment, exploring the complexities of surfing as a way of life. The author's journey takes him to unfamiliar worlds, from the coasts of New York and San Francisco to the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa.
Raised in California and Hawaii, the author began surfing as a child and went on to become a writer and war reporter. The book delves into the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves, as well as the social upheavals of the 1960s.
Through stories of life in a whites-only gang, apprenticeships to famous waves, and experiences in exotic locations, the author shares a world turned upside down by social change. With a mix of youthful folly and rueful humor, he recounts his adventures, including a memorable drop of LSD while riding a huge wave in Maui.
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