William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
- ISBN 13:
- 9781472151414
- author:
- William Finnegan
- format:
- Paperback
- publisher:
- Corsair 01 edition (10 May 2016)
- language:
- English
- Publication Year:
- 2016
- Pages:
- 512
- Dimensions:
- 13.2 x 3.4 x 19.8 cm
- Genre:
- Memorials
- Condition:
- New
- Availability:
- Item usually sent within 2 working days
Description
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a deeply personal and immersive memoir that explores the world of surfing through the eyes of its author, William Finnegan. A lifelong surfer, Finnegan recounts his journey as a young boy in California and Hawaii, and his travels to the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, and beyond in search of the perfect wave.
Through his story, Finnegan delves into the intense relationship between man, board, and water, and the brotherhood forged among surfers. He reflects on his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, and considers the enduring allure of this beautiful addiction.
This memoir is a social history, an old-school adventure story, and an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a story of dangerous obsession and enchantment, one that will resonate with anyone who has ever been drawn to the thrill of the ocean.